CASHMERE

When I hear the word ‘cashmere,’ my imagination has the sensation of cloud-like fabric between my fingertips. But often when such a seemingly angelic fabric is actually in our hands, do we question the true nature behind its conception? Although it may seem like angels are the ones weaving the fine threads of virgin cashmere from cloud fluff, it is actually sourced from a ruminant mammal. Considerably the Greatest Of All Time, goats, specifically Kashmir goats, are the ones responsible for the conception of cashmere wool, not baby cherubs.

With that in mind, Kashmir wool must be obtained by shaving the undercoat of the goat. The undercoat hair of a Kashmir goat is grown out as the Earth’s axis falls away from the sun when the days are shorter. However, year-round the goat has shorter course hair which is their “guard” hair. The time of year by which the undercoat grows out would be winter, appropriately cold in top market source places China and Mongolia. This is when the Kashmir goats are shaved, and due to this goats often die or experience extreme distress. There are humane farms out there, but the majority of cashmere sourcing from farms with unethical or potentially misunderstood practices. Sustainable doesn’t always mean environmentally friendly but can also mean enduring or continuous. Unfortunately, a majority of the Kashmir farming practices in China and Mongolia cause land and goat degradation, overall impeding on a sustainable cycle for obtaining cashmere. It typically takes around four goats to gather enough cashmere wool for a sweater, while it takes one sheep’s wool to make five sweaters. Furthermore, there is difficulty in sourcing enough wool, and the lack of farmers and producers of cashmere cause the wool to be a very expensive, rare, and luxurious fiber. The fiber of Kashmir has bumps which curl into each other, giving a softer angelic texture, another reason for its value.

Not to get lost in the glamour of the fabric’s luxury, the production of cashmere is overall noticeably not sustainable. Substantial land, water, energy, and toxic waste go into the manufacturing of cashmere. Due to this, popular sustainable brands such as Stella McCartney, Patagonia and Reformation are using their own versions of recycled wool for cashmere pieces in their collections. These recycled, regenerated, repurposed fibers of cashmere wool have greater purposes than being created into clothing, instead they are creating conversation about sustainable cashmere. Initiating conversations about environmental impact and sustainability is an action that should be practiced more often to instill self-awareness and provide education to society to be aware of choices that impact the environment.

Cashmere is a natural fiber, but if it is unethically sourced it most likely comes from a supply chain full of negative externalities. We all own fibers like this, cotton, being one of the most common “natural” fibers with a negative environmental impact if it is not ethically and organically sourced. From an ethical and sustainable practice perspective, it is concerning so many companies continue to engage with natural fibers in such unnatural ways. How can farmers, manufactures, producers, corporations and consumers contribute to regenerating a fiber cycle that respects nature? When there is recognition of a problem and determined responsibility to solve unsustainable issues, concepts of recycled and regenerated cashmere are birthed, feeling just as soft as cloud fluff, only this kind of cashmere promises a more heaven on earth kind of sustainable vibe.

-𝐬𝐚𝐫𝐭𝐨𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐥 𝐬𝐮𝐬